Screen Printing // Alternate Methods for Textiles

Tired of printing with ink? Want to learn about alternative screen printing techniques? Ready to take your textile printing to the next level? In this class we will cover Discharge and Burnout printing. Both are water-based materials that can be substituted for ink and screen printed on natural and synthetic fabrics.

Discharge printing is the process of removing dye from fabric. It creates an effect like bleach, taking the fabric back to its natural state without the harmful side effects of bleach, which damages the fabric. It works with natural/cellulose (plant) fibers (cotton, silk, rayon) and will remove most fiber reactive colors, direct dyes and acid dyes from fabric.

Discharge creates a beautiful inverse effect and unlike ink, it will not crack or fade with wash or wear. The integrity of the image will last as long as the fabric. The image becomes part of the fabric, it is in the fibers, there is no texture and the fabric can breathe. Although discharge paste can be stenciled or painted on directly, screen printing allows it to be distributed more evenly, creating a professional, consistent and repeatable result. It also allows for a greater amount of detail to be achieved.   Watch an example of the discharge process here.

Burn-out or devoré printing is the chemical process of etching an image into fabric, creating a texture. You often see it utilized on garments to create an all over textured pattern or simulate a vintage quality on t-shirts. Brocade velvet is also created using this technique. Besides adding texture and dimension, it creates a sheer quality in jersey fabrics that can be seen when held against light or worn against the skin.

Burn-out works with natural/synthetic blends like 50/50 cotton/polyester fabric. It removes natural/cellulose (plant) fibers from fabric and leaves the synthetic (polyester) fabric intact. Although this technique can be stenciled or painted on directly, the results with screen printing are precise, repeatable and capable of a tremendous amount of detail. 

*Students must bring their own screen, already exposed, a squeegee and few other supplies.  The other required materials will be provided.  Please download this document to review the full list of required supplies.*

Instructor
Chandi Lancaster grew up in the country with 25 cats near Point Lookout “the most haunted lighthouse in America.” She moved to NY in 1993 to study Painting at Pratt Institute. In 1996 she started her clothing line CHANDI, selling her t-shirts and ready to wear collections in boutiques throughout the US, Berlin and Tokyo. She has one foot in the art world and one foot in the fashion world and is non-committal about both. Her drawings, prints, t-shirts and clothing have been featured in the SCOPE Art fairs, TimeOut NY, NYLON and Daily Candy. You can view her work at www.chandinyc.com

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