ENAMELING UP CLOSE // Learn to Make Sgraffito and Plique-à-jour Jewelry This Summer

Previously, we took a look at the magic behind champlevé and cloisonné, jewelry-making techniques that you can learn in our Enameling 2 class. Now we'll round out our series with the class' other two processes, sgraffito and plique-à-jour.

Sgraffito is an approach that also exists in painting, drawing and decor (it was particularly popular in the Art Nouveau movement), but with enameling it involves applying and firing a base coat of enamel on a piece, followed by a thin layer of sifted, powdery enamel of a different color. The top layer is then scratched off in the desired shape or pattern, revealing the base coat. Another firing in the kiln preserves it. To the right you can see a matching necklace and earrings made with sgraffito enameling by Kira Scott. For more on sgraffito (which is derived from the same Italian word as graffiti—graffiare, "to scratch"), check out this tutorial.

Plique-à-jour (French for "open to light") is the technique of creating different sections of translucent enamel that are divided and supported by a metal framework. Think stained glass, but with enamel and metal rather than glass and lead. It's also similar to cloisonné, but without a base surface supporting the enamel. For an idea of what plique-à-jour pieces look like take a look at some images on Flickr.

OK, enough explaining! Just sign up for Enameling 2 this summer and make your own sgraffito and plique-à-jour jewelry!

--John Ruscher

ENAMELING UP CLOSE // Learn How to Make Champlevé Jewelry In 3rd Ward's Enameling 2 Class

We're back with the second in our series of posts highlighting the techniques that you'll learn in 3rd Ward's Enameling 2 class. We started out with cloisonné and now we'll take a look at champlevé!

Champlevé involves carving out or casting a piece of metal so that there are recesses in its surface. These recesses are then filled with enamel and then fired in a kiln. The technique was first popularized in La Tène, a style of early Celtic art during the 3rd to 2nd centuries BC.

Below you can take a look at the creation of a champlevé piece by jewelry maker Kira Scott, a friend of 3rd Ward teacher Max Goodman. Check out more of Scott's work on her blog and AnimaMetals Etsy page.

Want to create your own champlevé jewelry? Learn how in Enameling 2!

-- John Ruscher

ENAMELING UP CLOSE // Learn How to Create Cloisonné Jewelry in 3rd Ward's Enameling 2 Class!

We wear jewelry all the time, but the ways in which these beautiful accessories are created often remain a mystery. To shed some light on that we'll be taking a close-up look at some of the processes used in 3rd Ward's Enameling 2 class. First up is cloisonné!

Quick definition for you:

Cloisonné is the process of soldering an outline pattern onto a piece of metal, filling in the resulting compartments (cloisons in French) with colored enamel and then firing the piece in a kiln. This technique has been used to craft jewelry since at least the 12th century BC.

Below is a flower tri-pendant created by 3rd Ward jewelry teacher Max Goodman. Here's a description of the piece from her blog:

After painstakingly soldering the wire to the sterling silver sheet, I wet packed several layers of enamel and added some tubing for effect. I based the design on two separate art nouveau wallpaper patterns. When I’m out of formal ideas I return there often. The colors, though, are all my own. The entire piece is about 6″ long, and will hang in three parts.

Max Goodman's cloisonné tri-pendant before and after enameling.

Learn how to make cloissone pieces and more in Goodman's Enameling 2 class or get started with Intro to Enameling!

-- John Ruscher